The Mestiza Muse

Be Beautiful. Be Natural. Be You.

Be Beautiful. Be Natural. Be You.

Breaking Down the Culprits of Waxy Buildup on Your Hair

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

We partner with and endorse products from trusted companies that benefit our readers. Here’s our process.

As a reader-supported platform, we may earn affiliate commissions for purchases made through links, including those advertising Target.com.

Please read our disclosure for more info.

We’ve all experienced that exasperating moment after shampooing when, instead of feeling refreshed, our hair seems coated in an unwelcome waxy residue. It’s a common dilemma that prompts the question: What causes this buildup, and, crucially, how can we bid it farewell?

Waxy buildup on hair can arise from various factors, including the accumulation of products, excessive sebum secretion, the use of inappropriate hair products, overapplication of products, underlying health issues, hormonal imbalances like overproduction of testosterone, specific hair care product ingredients, and external influences such as humidity, hair damage, hard water buildup, and dandruff. Understanding these causes is crucial for effectively addressing and preventing this common hair concern.

Adding an extra layer of expertise to our exploration, I’ve teamed up with a friend who possesses a PhD in Chemistry, specializing in hair science. Together, we’re not just addressing the symptoms; we’re decoding the science behind waxy buildup and what you can do to get rid of it.

14 Underlying Causes of Waxy Buildup on Hair

Pinterest pin titled "Culprits of Waxy Buildup on Hair."

Numerous factors contribute to the waxy feeling in your hair after washing or drying. Identifying the root cause is the initial step in addressing this issue, as it could stem from any of these various factors:

#1 Product Buildup

One key reason behind the development of a waxy feel in your hair over time is product buildup. This buildup is defined as “the increase in weight of hair fiber as a result of ingredient deposits.”

The initial interaction happens on the hair surface, where active ingredients either adsorb or penetrate into the hair fiber.1,2

  • The surface of the hair, rich in proteins, tends to attract specific ingredients based on their chemical affinity, charge density, and molecular weight.
  • Scientific studies emphasize that large molecules can’t pass through hair cuticle pores; instead, they bind to the hair surface, creating a beneficial coating for maintaining healthy and conditioned hair.3,4

However, continuous use of formulations with identical ingredients can lead to increased deposits on the hair shaft, resulting in what we term as buildup. The likelihood of buildup varies with different ingredients; cationic conditioners, with a strong electrostatic interaction, are more prone to causing buildup.5

  • Oils and lipids that have large molecules also contribute to buildup as they cannot penetrate the hair.
  • As these ingredients accumulate, they alter the surface properties of the hair, creating a barrier that hinders water and other active ingredients from penetrating.6

This scenario harms hair quality, particularly in formulations abundant in oils, butter, and waxes, leading to greasy hair and a stiff feeling.

#2 Sebum Secretion

The human body, including the scalp, is covered in sebaceous glands that secrete an oily liquid called sebum.7

Sebum is a mixture of water, inorganic minerals, and lipids that naturally condition the skin and hair. It forms a barrier against environmental factors that can damage the outer surface.8

However, when excess oil or sebum is secreted, it can make skin and scalp surface oily. The water in sebum evaporates quickly, leaving behind lipids that create a surface with a noticeable greasy and waxy feeling. 9

#3 Wrong Products

Selecting the right products for your hair type is crucial to achieving the desired results and maintaining overall hair health. Whether you have naturally curly, straight, or ethnic coily hair, or if your hair has undergone chemical processing, each type demands a specific hair care routine.8

One common mistake you can make is dismissing a brand or product due to using the wrong products for your type of hair. To optimize results, it’s essential to identify your hair type, consider factors like porosity, and choose products that align with its unique needs.8

Being well-informed and educated about your hair’s requirements is paramount. Using inappropriate products can lead to an undesirable outcome, causing your hair to become rough, dull, and lifeless.

#4 Too Much of Product Applied

Ever heard the saying that too much of a good thing can be bad for you? The same principle applies to hair products.

To achieve optimal results, using the right amount of product for your hair is crucial, particularly when dealing with lipophilic ingredients.

Take oils, for example; they are excellent lubricants, emollients, and conditioners for your hair. However, too much oil use can lead to oily and sticky hair, also attracting dust particles. Striking the right balance is key to harnessing the benefits without the downsides.

#5 Overproduction of Testosterone

An over-production of testosterone can result in an elevated secretion of sebum, accumulating a waxy buildup on the scalp.10 If you notice such concerns, consulting with a healthcare professional is advisable to explore and address potential hormonal imbalances.

#6 Petrolatum, White Mineral Oil, and Other Petroleum-Derived Oils

Image of clear substance and dropper.

Certain ingredients commonly found in hair care products have the potential to contribute to a waxy buildup on the hair. Petroleum-derived ingredients, often utilized in hair care formulations due to their inert nature and cost-effectiveness, fall into this category.

Petrolatum has been employed for its conditioning properties, effectively retaining moisture for both skin and hair. These ingredients exhibit strong occlusive characteristics, forming a protective barrier on the skin or hair surface to prevent moisture loss.11

However, their water-resistant coating makes them challenging to rinse off during cleansing. With repeated application, these ingredients can leave the hair feeling stiff, greasy, oily, and waxy.9 Understanding these aspects can guide informed choices in selecting hair care products.

#7 Silicones

Silicones are high-tech functionalized polymers that are frequently added into hair care formulations because of their various benefits and multifunctional results. However, silicones are highly lipophilic materials.12,13

One such example is dimethicone, a thick liquid that forms a water-resistant layer on hair. Dimethicone is a viscous liquid that creates a water-resistant coating on the hair surface. They stay on hair even after washing as they are difficult to emulsify and dissolve during shampooing. This gives hair a waxy texture, which is more common for those with fine hair and curly hair types.14,15

#8 Certain Humectants

Humectants are ingredients that possess the capability to attract and retain water molecules, serving as hydrating agents for both hair and skin. However, it’s important to note that certain humectants can lead to a sticky feel on the hair.8

Take glycerin, for instance. Glycerin, a well-known humectant, has the tendency to make hair clump together and take on a waxy appearance when present in high concentrations in products.16

#9 Dry Shampoo

Dry shampoos itself doesn’t inherently cause waxy buildup, but overuse or certain formulations with ingredients like powders, starches, or silicones can contribute to residue accumulation, resulting in a waxy feel.17,18

To avoid this, use dry shampoo in moderation, follow product instructions, and ensure regular washing with shampoo. Opt for silicone-free or natural alternatives if concerned about specific ingredients.

#10 Humidity

Several external factors can contribute to the occurrence of a waxy buildup on your hair strands. The humidity level in the air plays a significant role in influencing your hair’s style and body. In more humid conditions, your hair tends to absorb more moisture from the environment.

However, if the hair shaft is already saturated with emollients or polyols (such as glycerin), it can give the appearance of a waxy or greasy texture. This is because there is an increased concentration of both water and oil, or water and humectant mixture, on the hair’s surface. The outcome is a stickier feel and an unpleasant texture on the hair surface.19

#11 Hair Damage

Engaging in chemical processes like bleaching, straightening, or prolonged sun exposure can leave hair damaged, porous, compromised in tensile strength, and even result in overly dry hair.4,20,21,22

Damaged hair is more likely to absorb active ingredients due to the larger channel opening (gaps and holes) along the cuticle layers. This heightened absorption applies to proteins, cationic conditioners, and small molecular emollients.23

Furthermore, chemical processing increases the presence of negative charge sites along the hair shaft, attracting more cationic molecules to adhere to the upper layers of the hair. This tendency makes damaged hair susceptible to buildup from conditioning ingredients, resulting in a heavy feel and a lack of definition, body, and texture.24,25

For optimal results, you need to tailor your hair care products specifically for damaged hair fibers to address these unique needs.

#12 Hard Water Build Up

Living in an area with hard water can take a toll on your hair, as minerals like calcium and magnesium tend to accumulate on the hair shaft, leading to various issues such as waxy buildup, dullness, lack of manageability, frizz, tangles, and knots.26,27,28

To counteract the effects of hard water buildup, incorporating a chelating shampoo into your routine on a monthly basis is crucial. This type of shampoo effectively removes mineral deposits, restoring your hair’s natural shine and luster.29,30

An additional strategy is installing a filtered showerhead. This proactive measure helps eliminate hard water minerals before they can deposit on your hair.31 A top recommendation is the AqvaPura filtered showerhead, known for its handheld ionic purifying design with mineral stones acting as water softeners.

#13 Dandruff

Dandruff, a prevalent scalp condition, manifests through symptoms like flaking, itchiness, and redness. Several factors, including dry skin, oily skin, fungal infection, psoriasis, eczema, and seborrheic dermatitis, can contribute to its occurrence.

In addition to affecting the scalp, dandruff can lead to a waxy buildup on the hair shaft. This happens when skin flakes shed from the scalp adhere to the hair strands, resulting in the accumulation of oil and debris.

To effectively address dandruff and the potential scalp buildup, the use of specialized dandruff shampoo instead of regular shampoos, preferably with active ingredients like zinc pyrithione or selenium sulfide, is crucial, as these aid in controlling yeast overgrowth on the scalp and reducing excessive dead skin cells.32 Additionally, incorporating apple cider vinegar into your hair care routine may provide a natural solution to combat dandruff and promote a healthy scalp.33

#14 Not Cleansing Your Hair Regularly

Regularly washing both your hair and scalp with a mild cleanser is another essential practice. This routine helps eliminate any buildup of oil and debris that may contribute to the development of dandruff and potential waxy buildup, promoting overall scalp health and preventing issues at the hair follicles.34

How to Get Rid of Waxy Buildup on Hair

Image of shorty curly haired woman touching the back of her hair.

Now that we’ve identified some root causes of waxy buildup on hair, let’s explore some ways to get rid of it!

Wash Regularly

Maintaining hair and scalp health is crucial, and one key aspect is proper hair cleansing. A healthy scalp contributes to overall hair well-being. Washing your hair regularly is essential to eliminate dirt, sebum, sweat, product residue, and other undesired buildup on both the scalp and hair.

Consistent cleansing not only promotes a clean scalp but also plays a vital role in restoring the natural body of your hair. This is particularly important for those with oily hair, as regular cleansing helps to combat excess oiliness and restore the bounce and definition of curls.34

Remove the Buildup

It’s crucial to eliminate product buildup from the hair surface for optimal hair health.

Using a clarifying or anti-residue shampoo is an effective way to achieve this. These shampoos contain surfactants and emulsifiers that dissolve or emulsify substances like emollients, waxes, oils, butters, and cationic polymers, effectively removing them from the hair surface.35

The result is refreshed hair with a restored natural appearance and body. For those with curly hair, incorporating a clarifying shampoo into their routine 1-2 times per month is recommended.

Opting for a sulfate-free formulation is ideal, as it doesn’t strip away natural hair lipids, preserving the hair’s natural texture.36

After using a clarifying shampoo, it’s essential to follow up with a conditioner or deep conditioner, and or a leave-in conditioner to replenish lost moisture and maintain a healthy balance for your hair.35

Avoiding Greasy Ingredients

we advise you to steer clear of petroleum-based ingredients like petrolatum. These substances consist of large molecules that function as robust, water-repellent lubricants, making them challenging to remove during cleaning.9

Instead, opt for natural emollients and oils with a lighter texture. Examples include sesame seed oil, grapeseed oil, baobab oil, or shea butter. These alternatives offer multifunctional benefits and incorporate sustainable green technology into their formulation, providing a healthier and more environmentally friendly option for skincare.37,38,39

Go Slow with Product Application

When applying hair products, work in small sections of the hair, ensuring you use only enough to cover each section. It’s often the case that a small amount is sufficient to meet your conditioning needs.

This method proves effective in reducing the potential buildup of conditioning ingredients. By applying the product strategically and in moderation, you can achieve the desired conditioning effects without the risk of excessive accumulation on the hair.

Seek Professional Medical Advice 

If you’re dealing with waxy buildup caused by medical conditions like seborrheic dermatitis (read about my daughter’s experience here) or psoriasis, the most effective approach is to consult with a qualified medical professional.

Seeking professional advice ensures you receive the most suitable treatment to restore the health of your scalp and hair.

Conclusion

The term “waxy hair” is a technical description referring to the physical characteristics of hair fibers. It denotes hair that presents as greasy, waxy, or possesses a sticky texture.

In this condition, hair fibers take on an oily appearance and tend to clump together, losing their natural shape and body. Fine, curly hairs are particularly susceptible, often experiencing a loss of their curl pattern, bounce, and natural definition.

Understanding the factors that lead to waxy hair is essential. It raises questions about the specific ingredients and circumstances that contribute to this phenomenon.


References

  1. Haake H-M, Lagrené H, Brands A, Eisfeld W, Melchior D. Determination of the substantivity of emollients to human hair. J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58(4):443–50. ↩︎
  2. Silva CJSM, Vasconcelos A, Cavaco-Paulo A. Peptide structure: Its effect on penetration into human hair. J Cosmet Sci. 2007;58(4):339–46. ↩︎
  3. Zviak C. The Science of Hair Care. 1st ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 1986. 624 p. ↩︎
  4. Robbins CR. Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 4th ed. New York, NY: Springer; 2002. 483 p. ↩︎
  5. Hössel P, Dieing R, Nörenberg R, Pfau A, Sander R. Conditioning polymers in today’s shampoo formulations – Efficacy, mechanism and test methods. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000;22(1):1–10. ↩︎
  6. Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(5):283–95. ↩︎
  7. Harkey MR. Anatomy and physiology of hair. Forensic Sci Int. 1993;63(1–3):9–18. ↩︎
  8. Marsh J, Gray J, Tosti A. Healthy Hair. 1st ed. Springer Cham; 2015. XVI–136. ↩︎
  9. Aguh C. Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Conditioning Regimen. In: Aguh C, Okoye GA, editors. Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair. Cham: Springer International Publishing; 2017. p. 79–89. ↩︎
  10. Zouboulis CC, Degitz K. Androgen action on human skin – From basic research to clinical significance. Exp Dermatol. 2004;13(Suppl. 4):5–10. ↩︎
  11. Morrison DS, Schueller R, Romanowski P. Petrolatum: Conditioning Through Occlusion. In: Schueller R, Romanowski P, editors. Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin. 1st ed. New York, NY: Macel Dekker, Inc; 1999. p. 57–94. ↩︎
  12. O’Lenick Jr. AJ. Silicones for Personal Care. 2nd ed. Kozlowski AC, editor. Carol Stream, IL: Allured Publishing Corporation; 2008. IX, 398. ↩︎
  13. Van Reeth I. Silicones-A Key Ingredient in Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations. In: Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI, editors. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 3rd ed. Informa Healthcare; 2009. p. 371–80. ↩︎
  14. Yahagi K. Silicones as conditioning agents. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1992;43:275–84. ↩︎
  15. Disapio A, Fridd P. Silicones: use of substantive properties on skin and hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1988;10(2):75–89. ↩︎
  16. Draelos ZD. Hair Cosmetics. In: Whitting DA, Blume-Peytavi U, Tosti A, Trüeb RM, editors. Hair Growth and Disorders. 1st ed. Berlin, Heidelberg: Springer Berlin Heidelberg; 2008. p. 499–513. ↩︎
  17. Bouillon C. Shampoos. Clin Dermatol. 1996;14(1):113–21. ↩︎
  18. Tosti A, Asz-Sigall D, Pirmez R. Hair and Scalp Treatments: A Practical Guide. 1st ed. Tosti A, Asz-Sigall D, Pirmez R, editors. Springer Cham; 2020. XIII–359. ↩︎
  19. Bhushan B. Conditioner Thickness Distribution and Binding Interactions on Hair Surface. In: Biophysics of Human Hair. 1st ed. Springer Berlin Heidelberg; 2010. p. 137–51. ↩︎
  20. Hessefort YZ, Holland BT, Cloud RW. True porosity measurement of hair: A new way to study hair damage mechanisms. J Cosmet Sci. 2008;59(4):303–15. ↩︎
  21. Barba C, Martí M, Manich AM, Carilla J, Parra JL, Coderch L. Water absorption/desorption of human hair and nails. Thermochim Acta. 2010;503–504(1):33–9. ↩︎
  22. Robinson V. A study of damaged hair. J Soc Cosmet Chem. 1976;27:155–61. ↩︎
  23. Bouillon C, Wilkinson J. The Science of Hair Care. 2nd ed. Boca Raton: CRC Press; 2005. XIII–801. ↩︎
  24. Maddar FM, Perry D, Brooks R, Page A, Unwin PR. Nanoscale Surface Charge Visualization of Human Hair. Anal Chem. 2019;91(7):4632–9. ↩︎
  25. Lodge RA, Bhushan B. Surface characterization of human hair using tapping mode atomic force microscopy and measurement of conditioner thickness distribution. J Vac Sci Technol A. 2006;24(4):1258–69. ↩︎
  26. Srinivasan G, Chakravarthy Rangachari S. Scanning electron microscopy of hair treated in hard water. Int J Dermatol. 2016;55(6):e344–6. ↩︎
  27. Evans AO, Marsh JM, Wickett RR. The structural implications of water hardness metal uptake by human hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011;33(5):477–82. ↩︎
  28. Srinivasan G, Srinivas CR, Mathew AC, Duraiswami D. Effects of hard water on hair. Int J Trichology. 2013;5(3):137—139. ↩︎
  29. D’Souza P, Rathi SK. Shampoo and Conditioners: What a Dermatologist Should Know? Indian J Dermatol. 2015;60(3):248–54. ↩︎
  30. Madnani N, Khan K. Hair cosmetics. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2013;79(5):654–67. ↩︎
  31. Massey L, Bender M. Curly Girl: The Handbook. 2nd ed. New York: Workman Publishing Company; 2011. 332 p. ↩︎
  32. Trüeb RM. Shampoos: Ingredients, efficacy and adverse effects. JDDG – J Ger Soc Dermatology. 2007;5(5):356–65. ↩︎
  33. Arun PPS, Vineetha Y, Waheed M, Ravikanth K. Quantification of the minimum amount of lemon juice and apple cider vinegar required for the growth inhibition of dandruff causing fungi Malassezia furfur. Int J Sci Res Biol Sci. 2019;6(2):144–7. ↩︎
  34. Punyani S, Tosti A, Hordinsky M, Yeomans D, Schwartz J. The Impact of Shampoo Wash Frequency on Scalp and Hair Conditions. Ski Appendage Disord. 2021;7(3):183–93. ↩︎
  35. Draelos ZD. Essentials of hair care often neglected: Hair cleansing. Int J Trichology. 2010;2(1):24–9. ↩︎
  36. Cline A, Uwakwe LN, McMichael AJ. No sulfates, no parabens, and the “no-poo” method: A new patient perspective on common shampoo ingredients. Cutis. 2018;101(1):22–6. ↩︎
  37. Demir E, Acaralı N. Comparison on Quality Performance of Human Hair Types with Herbal Oils (Grape Seed/Safflower Seed/Rosehip) by Analysis Techniques. ACS Omega. 2023;8(9):8293–302. ↩︎
  38. Krist S. Vegetable Fats and Oils. Springer Cham; 2020. XIII, 832. ↩︎
  39. Barve K, Dighe A. The Chemistry and Applications of Sustainable Natural Hair Products. 1st ed. Springer Cham; 2016. IX, 50. ↩︎

HI,I'M VERNA

I’m just a girl who transformed her severely damaged hair into healthy hair. I adore the simplicity of a simple hair care routine, the richness of diverse textures, and the joy of sharing my journey from the comfort of my space.

My mission? To empower others with the tools to restore, and maintain healthy hair, and celebrate the hair they were born with!

My Favourite Things

Great hair goes beyond using shampoos, conditioners, and styling products. Shop my favorite must-haves.

After years of requests, I’m finally sharing my go-to skincare products.

Give your space a quick refresh with these ultimate home decor ideas.

Prepare yourself for an unforgettable adventure and make sure to pack these essential items to take with you on your journey.

Curl Care

TROUBLESHOOTING

Is High Porosity Hair Genetic?

Are you curious about whether the characteristic of high porosity hair is inherited? It’s a valid question, especially considering the link between high porosity and damaged hair. How could a

Read More »

PRODUCTS

TEXTURES

10 Best Products for 2C Hair

2C, with its distinct s-shaped curls, represents the most defined pattern within the spectrum of wavy hair textures. This natural texture, lying at the intersection of straight hair and more

Read More »

TESTIMONIALS

OUR MANIFESTO

One day you will wake up and there won’t be any more time to do the things you’ve always wanted.
Do it now.

- Paulo coelho