When it comes to hair care, understanding the different types of oils can be the key to unlocking the full potential of your hair care routine. Oils are more than just add-ons; they are essential components that bring softness, shine, and protection to your hair. Whether dealing with dryness or frizz or just looking to enhance your hair’s natural beauty, knowing which oils to use and how to use them can make all the difference.
Oils are typically categorized into three main types: natural oils, essential oils, and carrier oils. While they all originate from natural sources, they differ in their chemical makeup, usage, and the results they deliver. Natural oils, such as coconut or olive oil, are rich in fatty acids and are commonly used to nourish and protect the hair and scalp. Essential oils, like rosemary or lavender, are concentrated plant extracts known for their aromatic properties and therapeutic benefits. Carrier oils, on the other hand, are natural oils specifically used to dilute essential oils, making them safe for direct application on the skin and scalp.
To provide you with the most accurate and expert insights on this subject, I’ve consulted with a hair scientist who is also a cosmetic formulator with a PhD in Chemistry. His expertise helps us dive deeper into the science behind these oils, offering you a clear understanding of their roles in hair care and how they can benefit your unique hair needs.
The Role of Oils in Hair Care Formulation
Hair care formulations are a blend of several ingredients where each ingredient plays a role. These natural substances are vital in providing emollience, softness, and a beautiful sheen to the hair shaft.
Natural oils, derived from sources such as fruits, seeds, and other plant parts, are especially valued for their natural origin, sustainability, and compatibility with the skin.1 Used for centuries, these oils are multifunctional, enhancing both the health and appearance of the hair and scalp.2
Today, formulators have access to a diverse array of natural oils, each with its unique chemical composition and physical properties, offering a wide range of options to suit various hair care needs.
Understanding the Different Types of Oils: Natural, Essential, and Carrier Oils
In cosmetic science, oils used in hair care are categorized into three main types: natural oils, essential oils, and carrier oils. While they all originate from natural sources, they differ significantly in their chemistry, usage, and the benefits they offer. Understanding these differences can help consumers make more informed choices about the products they use.
Natural Oils
Natural oils, often referred to as “butter” when in a solid state, are extracted from fruits, seeds, or kernels through processes like pressing or solvent extraction. Many of these oils, such as coconut, olive, and sunflower, are also edible and part of our daily diet. Other examples are cotton seed oil, sesame seed oil, palm oil (palm kernel oil), and rapeseed oil. Others, like castor seed oil, are non-edible but still play an essential role in hair care.
Chemistry of Natural Oils
These oils are esters of long-chain fatty acids, known as triglycerides, where three fatty acid molecules are bonded to one glycerin molecule, depicted in the structure below.3
Each natural oil’s unique chemical composition, including fatty acids, sterols, lipids, and waxes, affects its physical state, texture, and impact on hair and scalp health.4 For instance, the short-chain fatty acid lauric acid makes coconut oil liquid at room temperature, while the long-chain stearic acid in shea butter results in a solid, waxy texture.
Benefits of Using Natural Oils
Natural oils and butters are hydrophobic, meaning they do not dissolve in water. This water-repellent nature allows them to form a protective, water-resistant layer on the surface of the hair and scalp.
This layer is created through molecular adhesion, where the oils interact with non-polar sites along the keratin structure of the hair, establishing a stable bond. The effectiveness of this bond varies depending on each oil’s unique chemical composition, viscosity, and density.
Here are some of the key benefits natural oils provide for the hair and scalp:
- Improve scalp health: Regular scalp massages with natural oils can stimulate blood circulation, promoting healthy follicle activity and overall scalp health.
- Lubricate the hair and scalp: They help reduce friction, making the hair easier to manage and style.
- Provide emollience and softness: Natural oils deeply nourish the hair, leaving it soft and smooth to the touch.
- Enhance sensorial properties: They improve the overall feel of the hair, making it more pleasant to handle.
- Protect cuticles and align the surface: Oils help smooth the hair cuticle, aligning its surface for a healthier, shinier appearance.
- Boost sheen and gloss: Oils enhance the hair’s natural luster, making it look more vibrant.
- Protect against UV radiation and thermal damage: Many natural oils contain antioxidants that shield the hair from harmful UV rays and heat from styling tools.
- Preserve the mechanical strength of hair fibers: They help maintain the integrity of the hair, reducing damage from physical wear and harsh chemical treatments.
- Control hair breakage: By reinforcing the hair structure, oils can help prevent breakage and split ends.
- Detangle and prevent curl knots: Oils make it easier to comb through the hair, reducing tangles and knots, particularly in curly hair.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are water-insoluble, aromatic liquids extracted from plants such as rosemary, sandalwood, and rose. These oils are known for their volatility, meaning they readily evaporate and release their characteristic fragrances. Essential oils are incredibly versatile, offering numerous benefits for the scalp and hair.
Some essential oils are renowned for their abilities to promote wound healing, stimulate cellular turnover, and encourage hair growth. Their potent, natural aromas make them an excellent alternative to synthetic fragrances in hair care products, contributing to a more natural and sustainable formulation.5
Chemistry of Essential Oils
Essential oils differ significantly from natural oils in their chemical composition. Unlike natural oils, which are composed of long-chain fatty acid esters, essential oils consist of water-insoluble aromatic molecules that are non-saponifiable, meaning they cannot be converted into soap. The chemical makeup of essential oils varies widely depending on the plant source and even the specific part of the plant from which they are extracted.
The extraction of essential oils is typically carried out through steam distillation under vacuum conditions. This method is designed to preserve the delicate volatile compounds within the oils and prevent their evaporation during the process.
Essential oils are powerful stimulants for the scalp and provide a range of therapeutic benefits. In addition to these benefits, they contribute unique and distinctive aromas to hair care formulations. For example, mint oil or lemon peel oil imparts a fresh, natural fragrance when added to a product.
Some commonly used essential oils in hair care products include:
- Rose Oil & Rose Hip Oil
- Eucalyptus Oil
- Rosemary Oil
- Peppermint Oil
- Lemon Oil & Lemon Peel Oil
- Orange Oil
- Lemongrass Oil
- Chamomile Oil
- Sandalwood Oil
- Geranium Oil
- Lavender Oil
- Tea Tree Oil
- Cedarwood Oil
These oils enhance the sensory experience of hair care products and offer specific benefits that cater to different hair and scalp needs.
Key Benefits of Using Essential Oils in Hair Care
Essential oils offer a variety of unique benefits for hair care, depending on the specific oil used. Here are some key examples:
- Rosemary Oil: Known for its ability to stimulate the scalp, rosemary oil promotes hair growth by improving circulation and encouraging healthy follicle activity.6
- Lemon, Lemon Peel, and Orange Oils: These citrus oils provide a refreshing sensation of cleanliness and freshness, making them ideal for invigorating the scalp and hair.
- Tea Tree Oil: Renowned for its ability to combat cellular stress, it relieves scalp irritations and helps maintain a healthy scalp environment.7
- Antimicrobial Properties: Many essential oils possess strong antimicrobial activity, making them effective natural preservatives. This self-preserving quality allows essential oils to replace traditional synthetic preservatives in hair care products, contributing to a more natural formulation.8
Each essential oil brings its own set of benefits, making them versatile ingredients in promoting healthy hair and scalp.
Carrier Oils
Carrier oils are natural oils specifically used to dilute essential oils, making them safe for application on the skin or scalp. The term “carrier” reflects their role in carrying essential oils to the intended area.
Essential oils are highly concentrated and potent, often too strong to be applied directly to the skin or scalp without causing discomfort, irritation, or even a burning sensation.
To avoid these issues, essential oils are mixed with carrier oils, which act as solvents to dilute their intensity while still delivering their beneficial properties safely.
Natural Oils as Carrier Oils: What Makes a Natural Oil a Carrier Oil?
Carrier oils are often the same natural oils you might already be familiar with, such as coconut oil, peanut oil, or sesame seed oil. These oils are hydrophobic, meaning they do not mix with water, but they blend easily with the volatile aromatic compounds found in essential oils, creating a uniform mixture. The choice of carrier oil depends on several factors, including the desired benefits, the type of essential oil being used, and personal preference.
The compatibility between the carrier oil and the essential oil is crucial in forming an effective mixture. However, not all natural oils are suitable as carrier oils. For instance, castor oil is more hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water, and as a result, it does not mix well with essential oils, making it unsuitable as a carrier oil.
Some of the most common and effective carrier oils include:
- Coconut Oil
- Sesame Seed Oil
- Olive Oil
- Peanut Oil
- Apricot Kernel Oil
- Argan Oil
These oils are frequently chosen for their ability to blend seamlessly with essential oils, ensuring safe and effective application on the skin and scalp.
Benefits of Using Carrier Oils for Essential Oil Application
Carrier oils play a crucial role in the effective use of essential oils, offering several key benefits:
- Delivery System: Carrier oils act as a vehicle to deliver the benefits of essential oils to the skin or scalp, ensuring they are safely absorbed and effective.
- Minimizing Evaporation: By controlling and reducing the evaporation of the volatile essential oils, carrier oils allow more time for the essential oils to work on the skin or scalp cells, enhancing their effectiveness.
- Ease of Application: Carrier oils make the application process smoother by forming a uniform film and coating on the hair, skin, or scalp, facilitating an even distribution of the essential oils.
- Enhancing Aesthetics: The light texture and low viscosity of carrier oils enhance the sensorial experience, making the application of essential oils more pleasant and aesthetically pleasing.
These benefits make carrier oils an indispensable component in the safe and effective use of essential oils in hair and skincare routines.
Summary
Natural oils, essential oils, and carrier oils each play distinct roles in hair care due to their differing chemical compositions, properties, and benefits. Natural oils are primarily used for their nourishing and protective qualities, essential oils provide therapeutic and aromatic benefits, while carrier oils are natural oils specifically used to dilute essential oils for safe application.
Understanding these differences is crucial for making informed decisions when choosing hair care products, as each type of oil contributes uniquely to the overall health and appearance of your hair and scalp.
References
- Schueller, R.; Romanowski, P., Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin. Taylor & Francis: 1999. ↩︎
- Rele, A. S.; Mohile, R. B., Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of cosmetic science 2003, 54 (2), 175-192. ↩︎
- Hill, K.; Höfer, R., Natural fats and oils. In Sustainable Solutions for Modern Economies. , RSC: 2009. ↩︎
- Fregonesi, A.; Scanavez, C.; Santos, L.; De Oliveira, A.; Roesler, R.; Escudeiro, C.; Moncayo, P.; De Sanctis, D.; Gesztesi, J. L., Brazilian oils and butters: The effect of different fatty acid chain composition on human hair physiochemical properties. J Cosmet Sci 2009, 60 (2), 273-80. ↩︎
- Goodier, M. C.; Zhang, A. J.; Nikle, A. B.; Hylwa, S. A.; Goldfarb, N. I.; Warshaw, E. M., Use of essential oils: A general population survey. Contact dermatitis 2019, 80 (6), 391-393. ↩︎
- Panahi, Y.; Taghizadeh, M.; Marzony, E. T.; Sahebkar, A., Rosemary oil vs minoxidil 2% for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia: a randomized comparative trial. Skinmed 2015, 13 (1), 15-21. ↩︎
- Kunicka‐Styczyńska, A.; Sikora, M.; Kalemba, D., Lavender, tea tree and lemon oils as antimicrobials in washing liquids and soft body balms. International journal of cosmetic science 2011, 33 (1), 53-61. ↩︎
- Abelan, U. S.; de Oliveira, A. C.; Cacoci, É. S. P.; Martins, T. E. A.; Giacon, V. M.; Velasco, M. V. R.; Lima, C. R. R. d. C., Potential use of essential oils in cosmetic and dermatological hair products: A review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2022, 21 (4), 1407-1418. ↩︎
