How Your Hair Changes As You Age

Aging is a natural process that affects every part of our body, including our hair. As we grow older, our body cells gradually degrade, leading to visible signs such as wrinkles, fine lines, and a decrease in skin elasticity. The body has its own internal clock, where older cells die off and are replaced by new ones. However, over time, this process slows down, resulting in fewer new cells being produced while older cells continue to degrade.^1,2

The aging process in hair follows a similar pattern, though with distinct pathways. Hair, made primarily of keratin (a protein), is also influenced by both internal and external factors as it ages. This can lead to noticeable changes such as color shifts, texture alterations, increased breakage, and even hair loss.^3,4

In this article, with the insights of our hair expert—a hair scientist and cosmetic formulator with a Ph.D. in Chemistry—we will explore the scientific aspects of hair aging, how it affects hair health, and what makes older hair different from younger strands. We’ll also offer practical tips for caring for hair as it matures, helping you maintain its vitality and strength at every stage.

The Science Behind Your Changing Hair With Age

A combination of internal and external factors influences hair’s aging. Hair begins its journey in the follicles located on the scalp, and for healthy growth, these follicles require a steady supply of nutrients. Inadequate nutrient intake or poor delivery to the follicles can hinder hair growth and affect the quality of the hair fibers.

External elements also play a significant role in the aging process. Overexposure to UV radiation, harsh chemical treatments, and excessive use of heat can damage the structural integrity of keratin, the protein that makes up hair, ultimately accelerating the aging process.^5,6

In this section, we will explore three key observations about hair aging and the scientific explanations behind them.

Graying Hair

As we age, our hair naturally loses its color. Hair color is primarily determined by the presence of a pigment called melanin. When the production of melanin decreases, or its structure becomes damaged, it can lead to changes in hair color. Scientific research shows that graying occurs when melanocytes—the cells responsible for producing melanin—become less active. This reduced activity is often linked to lower levels of the enzyme tyrosinase, which plays a key role in melanin production.^5,6

As a result, the gradual loss of melanin causes hair to turn gray over time. Unfortunately, this process is irreversible, and artificial hair coloring is often needed to restore color.

Altering the Hair Texture

The cuticle, the outermost layer of the hair shaft, plays a crucial role in protecting the inner core of the hair. As we age, this protective cuticle layer becomes damaged, exposing the hair’s inner structure. Scientific studies have shown that hair diameter can vary along the length of the strand, with the cuticles being tightly packed at the roots and more eroded at the ends. Microscopic images reveal that the cuticle is often absent at the tips in aged and chemically processed hair.

Physical wear from brushing, combing, and styling contributes to this erosion. With age, the cuticle layer loses its compactness, making hair more vulnerable.^7,8 Additionally, environmental factors and hair care routines can accelerate this process, affecting the hair’s physical properties. As a result, hair may lose its natural shine, become coarser, and experience more friction during styling and everyday handling.

Because aged hair fibers can be more challenging to manage, they require tailored hair care products and specific regimens to maintain health and appearance.

Hair Loss and Thinning

Hair loss and a decrease in hair density across the scalp are common consequences of aging. While hair loss can affect individuals of all ages, it becomes more prevalent in older adults. Research indicates that increased oxidative stress can reduce the biological activity of healthy hair follicles, impeding the growth of new hair cells. Over time, follicles may deteriorate to the point where they can no longer produce new hair fibers. This process involves complex biological and biochemical changes and may also be influenced by hormonal fluctuations.⁹

In addition to internal metabolic factors, external elements such as environmental damage and harsh chemical treatments also contribute to hair thinning. Repeated exposure to oxidative treatments like bleaching and hair straightening can damage the cuticle layer, exposing the underlying cortex. As a result, hair loses its protein content, becoming fragile and thinner in diameter. This effect is especially noticeable in older individuals, whose hair shafts may already be compromised.

How Aged Hair Fibers Are Different

Aged hair fibers differ significantly from newly grown hair, as well as from pigmented and non-pigmented strands. Older and un-pigmented hair fibers tend to be more porous, which allows them to absorb active cosmetic ingredients, such as pigments, colorants, and conditioning agents, more readily.

These fibers also exhibit different rates of degradation when exposed to UV radiation. Gray or un-pigmented hair tends to degrade more quickly than pigmented hair. This is because melanin, the pigment responsible for hair color, has antioxidant properties that help protect the hair’s protein structure from the damaging effects of UV radiation. Without this protective melanin, aged, un-pigmented hair is more vulnerable to environmental damage.

As we’ve seen, aged hair fibers differ from newly emerged strands in several ways, including increased porosity and a reduced ability to resist UV damage. These changes make aged hair more vulnerable to environmental factors and cosmetic treatments. However, the aging process doesn’t affect all hair types equally.

Hair Aging Among Different Types of Hair (Straight, Wavy, Curly, Coily)

Different hair types—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—each have distinct physical properties, including variations in porosity, texture, and mechanical strength. Curly and tightly coiled hair, in particular, tends to be weaker at its curvature points, making it more prone to breakage during combing or styling. This means that individuals with curly or coily hair are likely to experience a greater impact from the aging process. These hair types often have a smaller diameter and already fragile shafts, which can make further damage from cuticle erosion even more pronounced.

As a result, curly and coily hair fibers may undergo more significant biological and biochemical changes compared to straight or wavy hair. This is also reflected in the condition of their scalp surfaces, which are often drier and rougher and produce less lipid secretion. These factors can further affect the quality of the hair shaft and contribute to the accelerated aging process.

As we’ve discussed, the aging process affects various hair types in different ways, with curly and coily hair being more susceptible to structural damage due to its unique physical characteristics. These hair types experience greater challenges when it comes to aging, including more pronounced cuticle erosion and a drier scalp surface. Given these differences, it’s essential to tailor hair care routines to address the specific needs of aged hair, especially for those with curly or coily textures.

How to Revamp Your Hair Regimen (Recommended Products and Methods)

Aged, gray, and un-pigmented hair fibers require specialized care, as their increased porosity and structural changes demand formulations designed to address these unique needs. To effectively care for aging hair, consider the following key features when selecting products:

• Emollience and Moisture: Aged hair fibers tend to be more porous, so they need products that provide softening, moisture, and emollients. Choose a gentle, mild cleansing shampoo that won’t strip natural lipids from the hair.
• Hair Conditioning: Opt for conditioners enriched with natural oils, emollients, and hydrating ingredients to replenish moisture and improve the texture of aging hair.
• Protection from Environmental Factors: Since aged and gray hair lacks melanin, it requires protection from environmental damage, especially UV radiation.
• Lightweight Formulations: To avoid buildup, choose products free from heavy synthetic polymers. Aged hair tends to absorb active ingredients more readily, so lighter, low-molecular-weight formulas are best for minimizing buildup while still providing effective nourishment.

With these needs in mind, here are some products from Bounce Curl’s range that I personally recommend to revamp your hair care routine and help maintain healthy hair. However, you don’t have to use Bounce Curl products specifically—I just love them and am very familiar with the line. Feel free to find similar products or explore other brands that suit your unique hair type and needs. The most important thing is to choose products that work for you and address your hair’s specific requirements.

• Bounce Curl Pure Silk Moisturizing Shampoo—This gentle, conditioning shampoo is ideal for use twice a week. It cleanses without stripping hair of its natural moisture.
• Bounce Curl Super Smooth Cream Conditioner—This soft, moisture-rich formula provides deep hydration. It is perfect for use 2-3 times a week, immediately following shampooing.
• Bounce Curl Moisture Balance Leave-In Conditioner – A must-have leave-in treatment, packed with antioxidants to protect your hair from UV radiation and keep it nourished.
• Bounce Curl Light Hold Creme Gel—This lightweight styling gel offers a flexible hold, ideal for everyday grooming and maintaining hairstyles.

Summary

As we age, our hair undergoes natural changes influenced by both internal metabolic shifts and external environmental factors. Aged hair fibers are distinct from younger strands, requiring specialized care. They tend to be more porous, with lower lipid content, and exhibit different behaviors in terms of absorbing or adsorbing active cosmetic ingredients.

Due to the depletion of melanin, aged hair fibers also need additional protection from UV radiation. Therefore, it’s important to select hair care products specifically formulated for aged or un-pigmented hair to address these unique needs and maintain healthy, vibrant hair.