Looking for the best way to care for your low-porosity hair? It’s all about the right ingredients. Many with low porosity hair struggle to find products that moisturize without leaving a heavy residue. Our guide is here to clarify which ingredients to avoid and suggest lighter alternatives for hydrated, healthy curls.
We’ll help you understand which ingredients might be weighing your hair down and offer solutions with expert-backed advice. I’ve consulted with a hair scientist and cosmetic formulator with a PhD in Chemistry, ensuring our information is rooted in science and expertise.
Ingredients to Avoid for Low-Porosity Hair
From person to person, the unique differences in our hair are immense and encompass a range of factors, including diameter, moisture level, fiber mechanical strength, and level of porosity.1
Because of this, hair care shoppers are motivated to find personalized formulations that provide their preferred outcomes for everyday styling and grooming.
Creating a successful hair care formula requires an amalgamation of many elements: detangling agents, emollients, cationic conditioners, humectants, and hydrating ingredients, as well as preservatives.
Thus, hair care consumers should diligently read the ingredient lists of any product before purchasing, particularly for those with low-porosity hair.
This hair type is fine and delicate but can be properly managed when given specialized attention daily.
Picking the right product is vital, and focusing on avoiding certain ingredients is critical. Formulations may contain harsh ingredients that might be too aggressive for your scalp or hair if you’re sensitive.
Some key ingredients should be avoided when choosing hair care products for low-porosity hair.
It’s disheartening to know that many of these potentially damaging ingredients are present in most haircare items on shelves today – whether it be from a drugstore or specialty store.
These ingredients may harm the integrity of your hair’s health and make styling efforts futile.
Sulfates
Anionic surfactants, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), are two key ingredients in shampoos that assist with cleaning. These detergents boast a rich, creamy, voluminous foam, providing superior cleaning on the scalp and hair.
However, they are known to be harsh and aggressive. They also remove essential lipids from the scalp and hair surface. This deprives the hair surface of its natural shine and slip.
Sulfates also have a high irritation potential and may cause redness, itchiness, and scalp discomfort. They can also make the scalp and hair dry.2-3 Therefore, low-porosity hair should avoid using sulfate shampoo and find an alternate sulfate-free shampoo. This would ensure hydrated hair fibers and a healthy scalp.
Other examples of sulfate surfactants are:
- Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
- Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
- Sodium Cocoate Sulfate
Sulfate-free shampoos are readily available today. They use other non-sulfate anionic surfactants, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, as an active cleansing agent in the shampoo formulation.
Good alternate options are:
| Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate | Anionic |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate | Anionic |
| Sodium Cocoamphoacetate | Amphoteric |
| Sodium Cocoamphopropionate | Amphoteric |
| Decyl Glucoside | Non-ionic |
| Lauryl Glucoside | Non-ionic |
| Coco-Glucoside | Non-ionic |
Silicone
Silicones are strongly hydrophobic oils frequently added into hair care formulations to provide slip, detangling, shine, and protection against thermal treatments.4
Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone are the two commonly used examples of this silicone family. These silicone oils are large molecular-weight silicone polymers that are water-insoluble and viscous.
These silicone oil deposits on the hair shaft, forming a water-repellent coating on its surface. This film is hard to remove but can be dissolved by shampoos with the help of sulfate surfactants.
Repeated application of silicone-based products leads to an accumulation, creating build-up and heaviness for low-porosity hair.
This gives it a rigid feel, making it difficult for the hair to retain moisture and become flexible. Therefore, people with low-porosity hair should avoid products with these ingredients.
Typical silicone oils are:
- Cyclomethicone
- Dimethicone
- Phenyl Trimethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Dimethiconol
- Cetyl Dimethicone
Petrolatum and White Mineral Oil
Petrolatum and white mineral oil are hydrocarbon oils obtained from crude petroleum. These two ingredients have been used since the beginning of the cosmetics industry.
Petrolatum has a jelly texture with high viscosity, while white mineral oil is a transparent liquid. Both provide lubrication to hair or scalp and prevent water loss from their surfaces. They are occlusive materials that form a water-resistant coating on the hair surface.
Nevertheless, they are incredibly greasy! When applied to low-porosity hair, these products can make it extremely greasy and heavy because of the high viscosity.
Most significantly, both of these components are derived from petroleum sources. Fortunately, more sustainable alternatives now exist in the market.
Formaldehyde or Related Preservatives
Preservatives are added to the formulation to preserve its quality against microbial contamination.
Microbes, such as bacteria and fungi, can be found in virtually every environment. Consequently, water-based hair care products are highly susceptible to microbial contamination.
Microbial growth in a product can alter the color, viscosity, and texture of the product altogether. Mal-odor is the first sign of microbial contamination.
Preservatives are added to prevent microbial growth and extend the product’s shelf life, maintaining its superior quality for as long as possible.5 However, the choice of preservative matters a lot.
Harsh and aggressive preservatives can cause skin sensitization and discomfort. Their presence can also cause other health issues.
Formaldehyde is one of the first preservatives added to household and cosmetic products. It is a water-soluble organic molecule. However, it is highly poisonous and carcinogenic,6-7 and hence has been banned for usage in personal care formulation.
Some other preservatives are formaldehyde-releasing molecules, which release formaldehyde over time when added to aqueous solutions. The release of formaldehyde is the primary method for preserving products, thus presenting a potentially detrimental risk to consumer health.
Hence, these preservatives should be avoided for all types of hair care or skincare products:
- DMDM-Hydantoin
- Diazolidinyl Urea
- Imidazolidinyl urea
Parabens
You may have heard to avoid parabens due to concerns about their carcinogenic activity, but they are considered safe in low doses under current regulations. Parabens have been used as effective preservatives with a strong safety record for decades. However, some consumers prefer newer alternatives like sodium benzoate or clove oil. While these options are gaining popularity, it’s important to remember that parabens have a more extended history of use and proven effectiveness in hair care products.
Isothiazolinones
These are sulfur-containing preservatives. Recent studies have revealed that they can be skin sensitizers, particularly for babies. For this reason, it is best to avoid them.
Their INCI names are:
- Methylchloroisothiazolinone
- Methylisothiazolinone
Synthetic Perfumes
Perfumes are added to cover the inherent smell of the chemical ingredients of the formulation.
Furthermore, including perfume adds an uplifting and delightful scent that carries throughout both opening the package and during product usage.
These perfumes are a blend of several synthetic organic molecules that are mixed to offer a characteristic aroma. These are all synthetic and lab-made. They are not natural at all.
Specific molecules can cause scalp sensitization and discomfort. Also, volatile molecules might have a drying effect on the scalp and hair fibers.
A green substitute for these synthetic perfumes is aromatic essential oils, e.g. Tea Tree Oil, Rosemary Oil, Eucalyptus Oil, Lemon Peel Oil, Lavender Oil, etc. They are natural, green, sustainable, and biodegradable.
In addition, these essential oils offer substantial advantages to users. Not only are they therapeutically and aesthetically stimulating, but many also possess therapeutic properties that facilitate overall well-being. They enhance blood circulation to the upper scalp surface, accelerate cellular turnover, and may also promote new hair growth.
If you have low-porosity hair, fragrance/perfume-free products are ideal. Compared to synthetic perfumes, an essential oil product is preferred because of its natural goodness.
High Dosage of Traditional Humectants
Humectants are chemical compounds that can bind and hold water molecules. Glycerin and propylene glycol are commonly used humectants in hair care formulations. They can attract water molecules from the air and add them to the scalp or hair fiber.
However, both polyhydric alcohols should be used cautiously on natural, virgin, low-porosity hair. High concentrations of either one can potentially result in the hair becoming limp.
Glycerin is sticky, and its high dosage makes hair heavy while suppressing the cleansing formulation’s detergency and foamability.
Consumers now have access to cutting-edge, high-performance moisturizing agents. Betaine is a top-rated organic substitute for common polyhydric humectants that can be used confidently, knowing it is green and biodegradable.
Synthetic Waxes
Synthetic waxes are mostly petroleum-derived organic molecules added to impart emollience, viscosity, stability, and texture to the hair product formulation.
They are primarily based on polyethylene polymeric chains having large molecular structures and weights. Unfortunately, they are heavy, difficult to degrade in effluent water, and are not environmentally friendly.
Consequently, those with low-porosity hair should avoid these synthetics and opt for natural alternatives.
Examples of synthetic waxes are:
- Microcrystalline wax
- Polyethylene
- Paraffin wax (very close to Petrolatum)
PEG, PPG, and EO Ingredients
PEG stands for Polyethylene Glycol, and PPG represents Polypropylene Glycol, with EO referring to Ethylene Oxide. These organic molecules play a crucial role in creating cosmetic ingredients, often found in the synthetic processes behind many beauty products. Originating from petroleum, these substances undergo further processing in synthetic chemical production. This explanation aims to demystify the acronyms you might encounter on ingredient lists, highlighting their common source and role in cosmetics manufacturing.
Certain ingredients are blended with PEG, PPG, or EO to change their chemical properties and make them more water-soluble.
1,4-Dioxane, a solvent used in these chemical processes, has been a matter of concern. Exposure to this chemical compound (1,4-dioxane) may cause discomfort in the form of a sore throat, difficulty breathing, and irritation around the eyes and nose.
Recently, ingredient manufacturers have been working to control the 1,4-dioxane concentration in their chemicals and minimize their exposure to consumers.
Shopping smart is key for any consumer. The best way to ensure your product’s safety is by directly inquiring about its 1,4-dioxane level from the product manufacturer.
Remember: researching before purchasing will save you a world of worry down the road. That’s why it’s highly recommended that consumers look out for PEG, PPG, and EO-free products when possible; prevention beats cure every time!
Common ingredients with PEG, PPG, or EO moiety are listed below:
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (it’s Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate with 2EO or 3EO molecules)
- Polysorbates
- Alcohol ethoxylates (E.g. Laureth, Pareth)
- PEG-100 Stearate
- PEG-150 Distearate
Hair Porosity
Our hair comprises a protein-rich, fibrous substance that can absorb moisture. The degree to which your hair can soak up liquids will impact its appearance, so it’s essential to understand how porous your hair is to make the best choices for keeping it looking its best.
Porosity can be imagined as a crevice, which is merely another way of saying “hole” or “gap.” It’s essentially any opening that allows something to pass through.
Every hair type is naturally porous and can absorb liquid to a certain level, depending upon the individual’s cuticle shape and condition.
Hair porosity is generally categorized as:
Now that we have a strong understanding of hair porosity let us discuss the characteristics of high and low porosity so that you can tell them apart.
High Porosity and Low Porosity Characteristics
High porosity hair is often caused by damage; however, it could simply be genetic. Hair with high porosity quickly absorbs products and water. It is usually very dry and brittle and can be prone to tangles.
High-porosity hair cuticles have tiny openings that allow water and other chemicals to penetrate easily. The raised flaps on the outside layer of the cuticle are what causes it to be more absorbent than non-porous hair.
Generally, low-porosity hairs are naturally occurring hair fibers and have not been subjected to chemical treatments or environmental damage.
Low-porosity hair has relatively fewer pores and less pore volume or size than extremely damaged hair. It tends to repel water and other substances because of the strands’ smooth cuticles. The cuticles are usually intact and healthy!
Low porosity hair is a blessing, as it prevents water and other substances from easily penetrating. This means that product(s) bond to the outside of your hair rather than sinking in and drying out quickly – providing extra protection from damage.
However, this can also be a hindrance when trying to keep your hair hydrated and healthy, as product build-up on the hair surface can form and make the hair appear dull, dry, and difficult to manage.
Now that you understand the characteristics of high and low-porosity hair utilizing this knowledge appropriately can help you get better results when using certain products or techniques when you style your hair.
Next, let’s dig into the ingredients to avoid low-porosity hair.
Summary
Those with low-porosity hair must have a specifically tailored haircare routine. Unfortunately, some ingredients may not be suitable for these tresses and should thus be avoided.
To guarantee that you are giving your low-porosity hair the attention it deserves, be sure to read over the ingredient lists of any product before using it.
To ensure optimal results, avoid the abovementioned ingredients that may not work well with this type of hair.
References
1. Robbins, C. R., Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. 4th ed.; Springer-Verlag: New York, 2002.
2. Wagner, R. D. C.; Joekes, I., Hair protein removal by sodium dodecyl sulfate. Colloid Surf. B-Biointerfaces 2005, 41 (1), 7-14.
3. Lakshmi, C.; Srinivas, C. R.; Anand, C. V.; Mathew, A. C., Irritancy ranking of 31 cleansers in the Indian market in a 24-h patch test. Inter. J. of Cosmet. Sci 2008, 30 (4), 277-283.
4. Yahagi, K., Silicones as conditioning agents in shampoos. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1992, 43 (5), 275-284.
5. Steinberg, D. C., Preservatives for Cosmetics. Allured Publishing Corporation: 1996.
6. Halla, N.; Fernandes, I. P.; Heleno, S. A.; Costa, P.; Boucherit-Otmani, Z.; Boucherit, K.; Rodrigues, A. E.; Ferreira, I. C. F. R.; Barreiro, M. F., Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies. Molecules 2018, 23 (7), 1571.
7. Brannan, D. K., Cosmetic preservation. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1995, 46 (4), 199-220.
