Proteins are a cornerstone of many hair care formulations, valued for their versatility and remarkable benefits. They play a vital role in improving scalp and hair health by filling in gaps along the cuticle shaft, reinforcing the mechanical strength of hair fibers, and smoothing the surface to enhance shine.1
Understanding the science behind proteins, their interaction with hair, and how to maximize their benefits is essential for anyone looking to elevate their hair care routine. By identifying these powerful conditioning agents in your products, you can ensure your hair receives the care it needs to thrive.
Identifying proteins or protein-based ingredients in product formulations can be overwhelming for many curly hair care enthusiasts. How can someone recognize proteins just by reading a product label? And is it possible to gauge the amount of protein in a product?
This article, enriched with insights from a seasoned hair scientist and cosmetic formulator with a Ph.D. in Chemistry, tackles these questions and more. We delve into the most commonly used proteins in hair care, how to identify them on ingredient lists, and what specific terms related to “proteins” truly mean. By broadening your understanding of protein and protein-derived ingredients, you’ll be better equipped to make informed choices and maximize the benefits of these powerhouse components in your hair care routine.
Identifying Protein Ingredients in Hair Care Products
A fundamental step in understanding hair care formulations is recognizing protein ingredients listed on product labels. Proteins used in cosmetics are sourced from various origins, with a growing preference for plant-based proteins or protein derivatives. Animal-derived proteins are now rarely included in modern formulations.
On ingredient lists, these proteins are typically labeled with terms like “Protein,” “Amino Acid,” or “Peptide,” often accompanied by the source name. For instance, wheat-derived proteins may appear as “Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein” or “Wheat Amino Acids,” while milk-derived proteins might be listed as “Hydrolyzed Milk Protein” or “Milk Amino Acids.”
The term “Hydrolyzed” refers to a process where raw materials, such as wheat or milk, are broken down in a water-based medium. This method extracts proteins in a water-soluble form, stabilizing the protein molecules in an aqueous solution, ensuring they can effectively benefit your hair.
Common Protein Ingredients in Hair Care Products
Proteins and protein-derived ingredients are highly valued in hair care for their gentle nature, multifunctional benefits, and sustainable origins. Over time, scientists have created conditioning agents for skin and hair from various protein sources. Additionally, modified protein derivatives have been developed to enhance functionality and performance.
Below is a list of highly sought-after and commonly used protein ingredients in hair care products:
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
- Hydrolyzed Keratin
- Hydrolyzed Milk Protein
- Hydrolyzed Silk Protein
- Hydrolyzed Cotton Seed Protein
- Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
- Hydrolyzed Collagen
- Collagen Amino Acids
- Wheat Amino Acids
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol (a functional wheat protein derivative infused with silicones)
- Quaternized Wheat Protein (a cationic, modified protein for improved conditioning properties)
These protein ingredients and their derivatives offer unique benefits, enhancing the effectiveness of hair care formulations while delivering noticeable improvements in hair strength, shine, and overall health.
Amino Acids, Peptides & Proteins: What’s the Difference?
How can you identify amino acids in ingredient lists? For example, terms like arginine, glycine, or lysine often appear on product labels. Understanding the distinctions between amino acids, peptides, and proteins can help you make more informed choices about your hair care.
Proteins are biological polymers made up of smaller units called amino acids. These amino acids are organic compounds containing an amino group and are the building blocks of all proteins. Interestingly, humans have 20-22 amino acids that bond in various arrangements to form different types of proteins.
Here’s how it works:
- Two amino acids bind to form a dimer molecule called a dipeptide or simply a peptide.
- Peptides then link together to create polypeptides, which are larger molecular structures.
- Further polymerization of polypeptides results in the formation of proteins, which are the largest molecules with the highest molecular weight in this chain.
Large protein molecules are fragmented and dissolved in water during the protein extraction process. This controlled process ensures that peptides and amino acids achieve the right molecular size and weight for optimal adhesion to hair fibers and enhanced performance.
Each amino acid offers unique properties, and their adhesion and efficacy on hair fibers depend on their molecular distribution. Different natural sources provide distinct combinations of amino acids, influencing their physical and chemical properties.
Here are a few amino acids commonly found in hair care formulations:
- Arginine
- Cysteine
- Serine
- Glutamic Acid
- Aspartic Acid
- Alanine
- Glycine
What Does “Hydrolyzed” Mean?
The term “hydrolyzed” is a chemical term that refers to the process of breaking something down using water or dissolving it into a water phase. In hair care, most proteins used in formulations are hydrolyzed molecules.
This process involves breaking large protein molecules into smaller fragments in a water-based medium, creating a water-soluble solution. The controlled fragmentation ensures the proteins achieve the ideal molecular size for better stability and enhanced performance in hair care products.
Hydrolyzed proteins are specifically designed to adhere effectively to hair fibers, delivering their conditioning benefits with optimal efficiency. Understanding this process highlights why hydrolyzed proteins are so valuable in modern hair care formulations.
Natural Extracts Containing Proteins
Which plant-based extracts might contain proteins? Common examples include quinoa extract, oat extract, and soy extract.
Natural extracts contain bio-organic molecules like glucosides, flavonoids, and polyphenols. Additionally, some may contain amino acids or protein fragments, depending on the raw material source and extraction process.
For instance, quinoa extract and hydrolyzed oat extract can offer small concentrations of protein fragments. The exact concentration of these proteins varies based on the specific plant source and the method used for extraction.
What Is Collagen and Its Role in Hair Products?
Collagen is a specialized protein that is vital in connecting and supporting various body tissues in living organisms. As one of the most abundant proteins in the human body, it provides a flexible matrix that holds tissues together.
In skincare and hair care, collagen is particularly valued for enhancing water retention and supporting tissue repair. A lack of collagen can compromise the barrier function of skin tissues, leading to dryness, roughness, and damage.
When incorporated into hair care formulations, collagen offers several key benefits:
- Hydration: Collagen improves water retention in scalp tissues, keeping them moisturized.
- Repair: It supports the recovery of damaged scalp tissues, promoting healthier skin.2
- Improved Circulation: Collagen enhances blood flow to the scalp, supporting overall scalp health.
This makes collagen and its derivatives ideal for hair care products that address dry, damaged, or inflamed scalp conditions. By nourishing the scalp, collagen helps create an optimal environment for healthier hair growth.
Assessing Protein Dosage in Hair Care Products
It is possible to approximate the protein dosage in a hair care product by analyzing its ingredient list. Ingredients on product labels are listed in descending order of concentration, meaning the ingredients at the top are present in the highest amounts, while those at the bottom are in smaller quantities.
To estimate protein dosage, carefully review the ingredient list for names of amino acids, peptides, or proteins. If proteins appear among the first five ingredients, this indicates they are present in significant concentrations and contribute substantially to the formulation’s overall weight.
By applying this method, you can estimate the protein dosage in a product and better understand the nature and benefits of the formulation for your hair care needs.
FAQs
Do Products Labeled as “Strengthening” or “Repairing” Always Contain Protein?
Most likely, yes!
Proteins are essential in repairing and strengthening hair. They fill in broken filaments within the keratin structure, reinforcing the hair’s mechanical strength. Protein molecules can penetrate deep into the cortex, filling gaps in keratin caused by high porosity from environmental damage or harsh chemical treatments.
Scientific studies have shown that proteins are highly effective in restoring hair fiber strength and preventing breakage. As a result, many hair care products marketed as “strengthening” or “repairing,” such as treatment masks, often contain one or more types of protein. These products typically include proteins in higher concentrations to maximize their benefits for damaged hair fibers.3,4
Do Synthetic or Lab-Made Proteins Work the Same as Natural Ones in Hair Care?
Thanks to significant advancements in protein science, synthetic or lab-made proteins can often perform as effectively as, or even better than, natural proteins in hair care formulations.
Innovations in sustainable sourcing and advanced hydrolysis techniques have enabled scientists to create protein fragments with precise molecular weights and structures. These tailored fragments are designed for optimal adhesion to hair fibers, enhancing their effectiveness.
Additionally, chemical modifications have been developed to enhance the benefits of these proteins. For example, quaternized proteins are created by attaching amino functional groups to the protein backbone. This modification allows positively charged protein molecules to interact electrostatically with negatively charged amino acid sites on the hair shaft, improving hydration, conditioning, and fiber-strengthening properties. 5,6
With these breakthroughs, lab-made proteins have become a powerful and reliable option for delivering targeted benefits in modern hair care products.
Thanks to their silicone component, silicone-modified proteins are innovative ingredients designed to provide both conditioning and slip. These proteins are particularly effective for extremely damaged or high-porosity hair fibers, offering enhanced manageability and smoothness.
Lab-developed proteins, including silicone-modified versions, are a game-changer in hair care. Their dual nature—combining the benefits of proteins with added functionalities like improved hydration and slip—makes them superior to natural proteins in many ways. These synthetic advancements provide tailored solutions for conditioning and restoring hair, making them an excellent choice for modern formulations targeting damaged hair.
References
- Schueller, R.; Romanowski, P., Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin. Taylor & Francis: 1999. ↩︎
- KARLER, A., Studies on the Substantivity of Collagen-Derived Polypeptides. J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists 1966, 17, 513-524. ↩︎
- Fernandes, M. M.; Lima, C.; Loureiro, A.; Gomes, A.; Cavaco‐Paulo, A., Keratin‐based peptide: biological evaluation and strengthening properties on relaxed hair. International journal of cosmetic science 2012, 34 (4), 338-346. ↩︎
- Cruz, C. F.; Azoia, N. G.; Matamá, T.; Cavaco-Paulo, A., Peptide—protein interactions within human hair keratins. International journal of biological macromolecules 2017, 101, 805-814. ↩︎
- Teglia, A.; Secchi, G., Proteins in cosmetics. COSMETIC SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY SERIES 1999, 391-464. ↩︎
- Tinoco, A.; Martins, M.; Cavaco-Paulo, A.; Ribeiro, A., Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations. Trends in Biotechnology 2022, 40 (5), 591-605. ↩︎
