In-Depth Guide to Growing Natural Hair

Natural Hair

You’ve probably heard about the term ‘Natural hair’ in the curly hair community by now. While the definition of natural hair can vary depending on who you ask, by definition, it means hair that has not been chemically straightened, texturized, or permanently altered in any way.

In terms of natural Black hair, there’s no one size fits all when it comes to texture and growth patterns, which is why it’s important to figure out what works best for your individual hair type.

But whether you’re dealing with kinky, coily, wavy, or a mixed combination, there are certain tips and tricks that can help you promote healthy growth.

If you are in the process of growing out your relaxer or transitioning from chemically processed hair to natural hair, you’ll notice thickness before gaining length.

Black hair types tend to be:

• Dry to the touch
• Susceptible to breakage, and this is why it’s important to use products and techniques that will help to moisturize and protect your strands.
• Differs from other races in the basic shape of the hair fiber and in its composition.
• Appears thick, coarse, and tough, but is the most fragile of all hair types
• Requires extra TLC, especially if it’s been compromised by chemicals or color.
• The more disulfide bonds that form in hair fiber, the more kinky and curly the hair is. FYI – Relaxers work primarily to disrupt disulfide bonds, that’s why relaxers can’t be stripped or undone.

Natural hair can look strong, but this is a very delicate texture and needs to be handled as such. This means frequent conditioning and moisturizing and as little direct heat as possible to maintain optimum health.

The Four Phases of Hair Growth

1. Anagen Phase (Active Growth): This is the phase where hair is actively growing, lasting anywhere from 2 to 8 years, largely determined by genetics. Over time, especially as we age, this phase gradually shortens.
2. Catagen Phase (Transitional Phase): Lasting about 2-3 weeks, during this phase, the hair follicle begins to shrink and prepare for resting.
3. Telogen Phase (Resting Phase): In this phase, which can extend up to 100 days, the hair follicle is in a state of rest before it starts growing again.
4. Exogen Phase (Shedding Phase): Following a period of rest, the hair sheds, and the follicle remains dormant for about five to seven months before re-entering the anagen phase. As we age, this phase tends to lengthen.

It’s crucial to understand that hair follicles are not synchronized in their phases; it’s typical for about 90% of your hair to be in the anagen phase, 1% in catagen, and 10% in telogen at any given time. Enhancing the anagen phase is vital for achieving optimal hair growth.

Key Factors Influencing Hair Length

1. Growth Rate: The speed at which your hair grows.
2. Genetics: Determines the duration of your anagen phase and thus your hair’s terminal length.
3. Anagen Phase Length: Directly influences the maximum length your hair can achieve.
4. Hair Retention: The effectiveness of preserving the ends of your hair from breakage.

Terminal Length

The terminal length is the maximum length your hair can achieve, predetermined by the length of the anagen phase according to your genetics. It’s the hypothetical length your hair could reach if it remained in perfect condition, without any cuts or breakage, and grew without interruption. Observing genuine terminal lengths is rare, as it requires growing hair under optimal conditions for an extended period.

If you’re aiming for your hair’s terminal length, patience and consistency in your hair care regimen are key. Family history can provide insight into the potential length of your anagen phase and, consequently, your terminal length. If you find your hair growth has plateaued or hasn’t reached a satisfactory length over the years, it might be time to reassess your hair care approach to better support your hair through its growth phases.

The Role of Hormones in Hair Growth

Hormones play a crucial role in regulating the hair growth cycle and influencing the structure of hair follicles. The levels of various hormones in the body fluctuate, directly impacting hair growth and health.

Key Hormones Affecting Hair Growth

1. Estrogen: Found in both genders, estrogen levels are typically higher in women. It promotes hair retention in the anagen (growth) phase and can accelerate hair growth. Low estrogen levels, often seen during menopause, are linked to hair thinning and loss.
2. Testosterone: While present in both men and women, men have higher testosterone levels. This hormone’s impact on hair growth varies and is closely associated with its derivative, DHT.
3. Dihydrotestosterone (DHT): A derivative of testosterone, found in higher levels in men. High levels of DHT and androgens can lead to hair follicle shrinkage, resulting in thinner hair strands.

Factors Influencing Hair Growth

Besides hormones, hair growth is affected by age, overall health, diet, medications, and hair care practices. For instance, during pregnancy, elevated estrogen levels prolong the anagen phase, leading to faster and thicker hair growth. However, post-pregnancy, estrogen levels decline, and hair typically sheds as it returns to its pre-pregnancy state.

Health Conditions and Hair Loss

Several health conditions can precipitate hair loss, including:

• Alopecia Areata: An autoimmune disorder causing patchy hair loss.
• Telogen Effluvium: Stress-induced hair shedding.
• Trichotillomania: A condition characterized by the compulsive pulling of hair.
• Traction Alopecia: Hair loss resulting from tight hairstyles that pull on the scalp.
• Nutrient Deficiencies: Insufficient protein, iron, and other vital nutrients can lead to hair loss.
• Thyroid Disease: Both hyperthyroidism and hypothyroidism can cause hair loss.
• Scalp Conditions: Issues like dandruff, psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis can lead to hair loss.

Understanding the complex interplay between hormones and other factors is essential for addressing hair growth and loss effectively. As we delve deeper into hair growth dynamics and potential damage, it’s important to consider these hormonal influences and underlying health conditions.

Nurturing Natural Hair Growth and Preventing Damage

Growing natural hair is like to cultivating a tree. Just as a tree requires time to grow robust and tall, with branches potentially damaged by environmental challenges, hair needs time to lengthen and strengthen, susceptible to damage from styling, coloring, and chemical treatments. To foster faster natural hair growth, focus on two key areas: minimizing damage and encouraging growth.

Scalp Health: The Foundation of Hair Growth

Hair originates from follicles nestled within the scalp, making the follicle the living part of hair while the shaft is the visible section emerging from the scalp. Maintaining scalp health is crucial as it lays the groundwork for hair growth. Here are strategies to ensure a healthy scalp, thereby promoting hair growth:

• Minimize Damage: Avoid hairstyles that tug on the hair, potentially harming the follicles.
• Cleanse Gently: Use a mild shampoo for washing and gently massage the scalp with fingertips or a scalp massager to stimulate blood flow.
• Exfoliate: Regularly exfoliating the scalp with a soft scrub can remove dead skin cells, fostering an optimal environment for hair growth.
• Nourish: Treat the scalp with masks or oil treatments to enrich the follicles and encourage hair growth.

The Key to Hair Growth: Mastering Retention

To achieve long, healthy hair, mastering the art of retention is essential. Regardless of how quickly your hair grows from the scalp, visible length will not increase if the ends are not preserved. This can make hair growth seem stagnant despite continuous new growth.

The Challenge of Retention

Frequent use of relaxers, chemical treatments, or excessive heat styling often leads to difficulty retaining hair length. Although new hair grows each month, the absence of hair from previous months due to damage or breakage can make it seem impossible to surpass certain lengths. To witness genuine growth, focusing on retaining length is crucial.

Common Culprits of Breakage and Solutions for Retention

• Heat, Coloring, and Chemical Damage: Minimize the use of heat styling tools and chemical treatments to prevent weakening the hair shaft.
• Physical Damage: Avoid excessive manipulation, tight hairstyles, and rough handling, especially when hair is wet, to reduce strain on your hair.
• Moisture Deficiency: Regularly use moisture-rich shampoos and conditioners to keep the hair hydrated.
• Protein Shortage: Incorporate protein treatments to bolster the hair shaft, enhancing its resilience against breakage.
• Scalp Health: Maintaining a healthy scalp is fundamental for hair growth; poor scalp health can impede growth before it even begins.
• Environmental Factors: Protect your hair from UV rays and extreme temperatures to prevent external damage.
• Nutritional Deficiencies: A balanced diet is crucial for hair health. Lack of nutrients due to anemia, smoking, or crash dieting can adversely affect hair quality and growth.

Strategies for Retaining Length

• Limit Damaging Practices: Reduce the frequency of heat styling and coloring.
• Hydrate: Ensure your hair is well-hydrated with suitable hair care products.
• Strengthen: Utilize protein treatments to fortify your hair.
• Minimize Manipulation: Opt for protective styles like loose braids or twists to lessen daily wear and tear.
• Handle With Care: Be gentle during hair maintenance to avoid unnecessary breakage.

By focusing on these retention strategies, you can prevent the common pitfalls that lead to hair breakage and ensure that your hair not only grows but retains the length over time.